I would like to take a moment to discuss belts and the leather used to make them. Specifically, I want to address why belts from big box stores often don't last long and the different types of leathers used in belt production. I will try explain how to determine the quality of a belt before purchasing it.
Leather types:
There are multiple types of leather, with the two main categories being chrome-tanned and vegetable-tanned leather. Chrome-tanned hides are softer and more stretchy, making them suitable for bag sides, garments, and upholstery. On the other hand, vegetable-tanned leathers generally have a tighter grain, making them stronger and stiffer. The difference lies in the process of turning raw hides into usable leather.
Chrome-tanned:
This leather gets its name from the use of chromium salts in the tanning process. This method was discovered in the late 1800’s and revolutionized leather production, increasing production and more it more profitable. While chromium and other chemicals are still used today, the toxicity and environmental impact have been reduced. However, chrome-tanned leather is not ideal for belts, except for costume belts or dress belts that are combined with stiffer leather like veg tan or other materials. Chrome-tanned leather do offer benefits over veg tan such as water, stain, and heat resistance, as well as a soft and durable feel. I commonly used for bag sides, wallets, inlays, and accents. The problem arises when manufacturers use chrome tan leather alone for belts.
Vegetable-tanned:
Vegetable tanning is one of the oldest known methods and involves using natural tannins from tree bark, leafs and roots to tan the hide. This process takes longer than chrome tanning, often several months. Each step in the vegetable tanning process is more labor-intensive, involving steps like using salting the hides to kill bacteria, lime to remove hair, then soaked in vats of tannins from the bark, leaves, and roots for several months. The leather is then dried, conditioned with oils and waxes and stretched before being finished. The specific tannins used and finishing oils/waxes determine the characteristics of the leather. Not all vegetable-tanned leather is the same, as different qualities are suited for different applications such as wet molding, straps like belts, or saddles.
Artisan vs. mass production:
Now let's discuss why artisan belts are superior to most store-bought belts. Store-bought belts are often produced with profit as the main concern, leading to compromises in material quality and construction methods. Many retail belts use vegetable-tanned leather, but they source and utilize the cheapest materials and manufacturing facilities, resulting in subpar belts.
- The first factor to consider is the quality of leather. The region where the tannery is located plays a significant role. I have used imported vegetable-tanned leather from multiple countries and the USA. In my experience, the vegetable-tanned leathers from other countries for the most part have had loser grain and more stretch compared to those from American tanneries. It is unclear whether this is due to the tanning processes or the materials used. However, one way manufacturers can cut costs is by using imported leather. If they haven't researched the best tannery for belt hides, it can lead to problems.
- The second factor is where on the hide the strap is cut from to make the belt. The way cows move affects the strength and stretch of the leather. The most stable part of the hide is the top of the back, from just behind the shoulder down to the butt. This area experiences the least movement when the cow is running in the fields. The butt is also the best place to have the belt holes placed. Mass production often overlooks and reverses this detail, which can greatly affect the lifespan of a belt. All the pressure put on a belt is transferred to the point where the bar of the buckle goes through the belt hole.
- The third and final factor I want to mention is the type of leather used: full grain vs top grain and split grain. Full grain leather is the best choice for making belts as it retains all the layers of the hide. If any needs to be removed to achieve the desired thickness, it is taken from the flesh side or inside of the hide. The flesh side is the thickest layer and contains the looser fibers of the leather and does not affect the strength as much when removed. Top grain, sometimes called corrected grain, is full grain leather that has had the very outer layer removed to eliminate surface imperfections. It still retains 90% or more of its strength and is often used in better store-bought belts. Split leather refers to the flesh side of the leather. When full grain leather is split down to a thin hide, you are left with a rough split and the full/top grain. The full/top grain is used in products like wallets and bags that require thinner leather, while the split has various uses like welding aprons and stiffening for briefcases. However, belts should not be made from split leather in most cases. Unfortunately, many manufacturers use this split leather due to its lower price and apply a heavy acrylic finish to make belts, labeling them as "genuine leather". The strength of the leather lies in the top few layers, and once those layers are removed, the split does not have the grain strength to make a belt that will hold up well.
In conclusion, it is essential to understand the different types of leather and tanning methods when selecting the right leather for a belt. Artisan belts, made with attention to detail and quality materials, will surpass most store-bought belts in durability and functionality.